A Fundamental Shape: Origin of Heishi Beads

Today, Heishi beads (also spelled Heishe) are known to be a disc or tube-shaped bead with a hole through the middle for use in jewelry, but they haven’t always been exactly that. The name originates from the Keras language of the Santo Domingo Native Americans in the American Southwest, and it translates to “shell bead”. It is pronounced “hee-shee”. Today, Heishi is more known as small tube-like beads and can be made from any material like wood or gemstones, but its history stems from shell beads found in the Gulf of California. They were traded by the Santo Domingo Native Americans in exchange for shells or goods.

Heishi beads may well be the oldest form of jewelry in North America, and most certainly is the oldest form in New Mexico. It predates the use of even metals in jewelry making, giving it a very interesting place in the history of the Southwest and North America as a whole. The manufacturing of these tiny beads is one that requires dedication, patience, and skill. First, the raw material needs to be sliced into long strips by a blade, then small pieces are nipped off into little squares with a hand tool. Next, the corners and sides are cut down and shaped as close to a circle as possible. Then, a hole is drilled in the middle for stringing. Once the rough beads are strung, a lapidary artist then turns the beads against a spinning stone wheel to slowly shape them into a circle or disc. They sand them to perfect the finish and make the material look as beautiful as possible. The beads are then ready to be made into jewelry!

Santo Domingo remains at the heart of this bead style to this day and is still the leading producer of them. They are used in jewelry designs of all types and are a mainstay in common jewelry all over the world.

Why Heishi Beads Have Lasted for Centuries

Heishi beads are one of the earliest known bead forms, and their longevity is not accidental. The shape itself is a solution—developed long before modern tools—to real design and wear challenges.

• Flat disc shape distributes wear evenly– The thin, uniform profile reduces stress points along a strand, making Heishi beads durable despite their delicate appearance.

• Ideal for stacking and long strands– The beads sit flush against one another, creating smooth, flexible strands that move naturally and wear comfortably.

• Visually quiet, structurally strong– The simplicity of the shape allows the stone itself to take center stage while maintaining strength and consistency across a design.

• Works across cultures and eras– From early Native American jewelry to modern minimalist designs, the Heishi shape adapts without losing its identity.
  

A Shape Dating Back Centuries

Rather than being a modern invention, Heishi beads date back centuries, with roots in early Native American lapidary traditions of the American Southwest. Historically, artisans shaped small stone discs by hand, drilled them using simple tools, and carefully strung them into uniform strands.

The labor-intensive nature of this process made Heishi beads a sign of skill and craftsmanship. Long before powered cutting or mass production, achieving consistent thickness and clean edges required patience and precision.

This deep history explains why this shape feels foundational rather than decorative—it was developed out of necessity, refined through experience, and passed down through generations of makers.

How Designers Use Heishi Beads Today

Modern jewelry designers continue to rely on Heishi beads for the same reasons early artisans did: versatility, balance, and durability.

• Spacers in gemstone strands– Heishi beads create visual breaks between larger stones while maintaining flow and flexibility.

• Color breaks in graduated designs– Their slim profile allows for subtle transitions between tones without overpowering focal elements.

• Texture contrast with rounds or facets– Pairing flat Heishi beads with polished rounds or faceted stones adds depth without adding visual noise.

• Everyday jewelry that doesn’t feel trendy– Heishi beads support designs meant to be worn daily—pieces that feel intentional, timeless, and unfussy.
  

SHOP HEISHI BEADS